Preheat the oven to 220­ºC/460ºF/gas mark 9.

Peel and cut the onions into chunky wedges, peel and cut the squash into bite-sized pieces and discard the seeds and pith. Toss the whole lot onto a baking tray, dress with plenty of olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. Slide into the oven and cook for 30-35 minutes until deeply roasted, completely tender and starting to char.

Cut the celery sticks into chunky diamonds. Preheat a large saucepan or cast-iron pot over a medium heat and add a generous glug of olive oil. Tip in the celery and add a pinch of salt. Cook for 8-9 minutes, stirring regularly, until it starts to sweat and soften. Add the chipotle paste and crank up the heat. Stir the pastes through the veggies to coat and cook over a high heat for 6-7 minutes until the mixture starts to caramelise. Drop the herbs in (leave the rosemary stems intact) and cook for a minute or two before adding the stock. Scrape the bottom of the pan to draw up any colour or gnarly flavour that might have developed at the base of the pan. Bring the whole lot to a bare simmer.

Tip the beans into a bowl and use a fork or your hands to squash around a third into a smooth-ish paste. Tip the whole lot into the pan of soup and stir through. Bring back to a simmer and notice the soup thicken. Cook for 25-30 minutes.

While the soup simmers, prepare your garnishes - finely chop the dill, zest the orange and crumble the feta. Once the soup has been simmering for 25 minutes, add the roasted squash and onions, turn up the heat slightly and bubble for a final 5-6 minutes.

Remove the soup from the heat and fish out the bay leaves and rosemary stems. Finish the soup with the dill and the zest and juice of the orange. Season with salt and pepper and then divide among warm bowls. Top with the crumbled feta, a little olive oil and a twist of pepper.

This recipe is all about building flavour from the ground up. take your time and notice how at each stage the flavours develop and deepen. Be sure to get plenty of smoky, roasted flavour onto the pumpkin and onions in the oven before they hit the pan. Build flavour, caramelising the celery and roasting the chipotle paste, and seal the deal with a big hunk of feta. If you take your time at each stage and follow the steps, a relatively simple soup with a short ingredient list can be a big hit.