Preheat the oven to 220C / gas mark 7. Put the squash in a baking tray and toss generously with olive oil and a pinch of salt. Roast for 30-35 minutes, turning once after 15, until the edges have crisped and they are tender when pierced with a fork.

For the last five minutes, scatter the sliced almonds onto a small baking dish and add to the oven on a lower shelf to dry-roast. You might need to leave them in longer than this — you want the pale parts to darken in colour to a toasty brown, and the smell to be flagrantly nutty — but be cautious; they’ll burn quick and become bitter.

Meanwhile, tip the beans and a tablespoon of their bean stock into a blender with the whole garlic clove. Generously grind in some black pepper, blitz to a textured puree, and taste to check the seasoning. Bean stock is well seasoned, so don’t add any salt until this stage when you’ve checked to see if it’s necessary.

When everything else is ready, quickly fry the sage: heat the oil in a small frying pan and drop in the sage leaves, trying not to crowd them. Fry until they are crisp and fragrant - around 30 seconds - then remove gently with a fork or small tongs and set on some kitchen paper.

To serve, smooth out the pureed beans onto a serving platter and pile over the roasted squash. Drizzle with good olive oil, then scatter over the toasted almonds and crispy sage. This is good with something sharp alongside: a bright pickled cabbage, or dressed salad, or just a squeeze of lemon.