Preheat the oven to 200°C fan (220°C/425°F) and line a roasting tray with baking parchment.

Start with the aubergine. Toss the slices with the olive oil, za'atar and some salt and pepper, then roast on the lined tray for 25–30 minutes, flipping halfway, until golden and soft.

While that's going, get the cabbage wedges on to a separate roasting tray. Toss them with two tablespoons of the olive oil, a tablespoon of the za'atar and some salt and pepper, then do the same with the chickpeas, tossing them with the remaining olive oil and za'atar and the sumac. Season with salt and pepper. Spread out on the tray next to the cabbage wedges and roast for 10–15 minutes until the cabbage is crisp but the inside's still got some bite and the chickpeas are just crispy.

Now the good stuff: the sauce. Roast the aubergine at 220°C fan (240°C/465°F) for 35–40 minutes, until properly soft and collapsed. Scoop out the flesh and blitz it smooth in a blender or food processor. Add the tahini, pickled chillies, pickle liquid, salt, parsley, lemon juice, cumin and olive oil. Blend until creamy, gradually adding a tablespoon or two of ice-cold water to loosen. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt or lemon.

To assemble, arrange the roasted aubergine, hispi cabbage and crispy chickpeas in an ovenproof serving dish, then whack it back in the oven for 5 minutes to bring it all together.

Serve with a generous drizzle of the aubergine tahini, chopped parsley, sliced green chillies if you like heat, and a sprinkle of sumac. Serve warm.